I don't think there's any place on earth where emptiness can be so keenly felt as here in the Westhoek. The Tibetan mountains, the Pacific ocean, even the Central Asian steppes are too magnificent: their emptiness is physical, not spiritual. But this place has slipped into an ever deeper coma ever since it was blasted to mud a hundred years ago. No place in nature is this godforsaken.
Anyone who had anything interesting to do avoided this place and went elsewhere. That leaves me here, trying to think of what to do, because as long as I don't know, I'm not going nowhere — and that's where I am, nowhere, because until I know what's the right choice to make, I don't want to be distracted. The most interesting creatures here are the crows, and they look at us with judging eyes.

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